[Grimlock]

so! 2 more questions:

first:
the depth control is only attached to the 4 Ohm position in the speaker output selector? why?

second:
the 4th position of the power(? )tubes-sochets are connected trough the 1K/5W  to 462V screens...but in the pictures made by Cliff, the 6th positions of all the sochets are also connected...but I don't see that connection anywhere in the electric scheme made by Joachim.

anyone?

[MetalBasti]

Hi Grimlock,

For the second Q:
Pin 6 is an unused pin at all 6L6 and EL34 tubes and may be used as a random solder point.

It is common to use it for holding the second end of the screen resistor.
So pin 4 is soldered to one end of the resistors and pin 6 to the other.
Then pin 6 of all power tubes are connected with the screen supply voltage.

Greetings Basti

[The Tube-Factor]

For the first question:

Sound/effectiveness of presence and depth changes with the tap you connect your NFB to. on 16 ohms tap, depth is more subtile than on 4 ohms.
just search the internet for negative feedback. I think Aikenamps has good information concerning this topic.

regards

[Grimlock]

thx metalbasti and tubefactor

another question:
there was a transfo made by the tube amp doktor in an other topic, but it seems even that transfo does not excist anymore

I found this one though:
http://www.tubeampdoctor.com/product_info.php?products_id=1551

could anyone tell me weither this one can also do the trick? considering the fact that you just ignore several connections at the primary side of the tranfo...

[The Tube-Factor]

Yes it can!

I ordered one and got it for the old price.

The difference between this one and the old one is just that the new one has more taps primary.... and that it costs 15 euros more...

[Grimlock]

The difference between this one and the old one is just that the new one has more taps primary.... and that it costs 15 euros more...

yeah...and another 12 euro's shipping cause I live in belgium...thank god I'm starting a job in september  amp-building is't a great hobby for students with little amount of money...



can someone tell me what color is what voltage/ampère? or correct me when I'm wrong:
red = 360V AC
Orange = 60V AC
there should be a 0 connection also?
what are the yellow ones for "bias"?
is fillament 2A and switching 8A or the other way around?

[mc_guitar]

Hello,

 the 6,3V Filament Tap should be the 8A one, because it's for the TubeHeaters and it needs a lot of current! One EL34 needs about 1,5A on a 6,3V supply, e.g.
The Bias Taps (Yellow) should be for the fixed Bias-Supply.

Cheers Micha

[Grimlock]

thx!

but what with the 0V connection on the secundare side?

[mc_guitar]

Hello again,

 Normally, if you have a HT-Tap with three cables, the middle one is the Center Tap and gives you the 0V. So in your case it should be the orange cable, and it should be connetcted to Ground. The two Red ones give you HV+ and HV-.
A very good Site for additional information is http://www.valvewizard.co.uk

Cheers Micha

[Grimlock]

so if the orange one is the 0V, then wich one is the 60V tap? Mr " The Tube-Factor"...you've bought this one. Hopefully you can suplly me with the information needed?

[The Tube-Factor]

Hi!

I wasn´t sure about the colour code,too. The one on the packaging was different than  the one on the website, therefor i asked the service team which one is right. He sent me an email:

Primary:         
   240V      Brown
   230V      Black
   220V      Grey
   120V      White
   0V      Blue
   
         
Secondary:         
   365V      Red
   0V      Orange
   365V      Red
         
   Bias      Yellow
   0V      Yellow
         
   Switching   White
   0V      White
         
   6,5V   Black  (This is filament, i guess he meant 6,3 V here)
   0V   Black

So the one on their website is the right one..

Hope this helps!


Did you already start building your clone? I´m interested in pictures!

I will start in about two weeks- after my holidays.
It took a damn long time to get all the parts,although there´s a part list...
Still need an OT, Tubes and a few bits and pieces.

Cheers!

[Grimlock]

don't you need a 60V tap on the secundary side also?

I've started building yes...I think about 80% of the work is done at this point...I'll make some pictures this afternoon and put them online this evening.

[The Tube-Factor]

Yes, the bias one is the 60 V!

[Grimlock]

nevermind...the 60V tap is the bias-tap, I just found out...I was to fast with my whining...

[Grimlock]

so here are the pictures!

it might look sloppy and it is! but there's no shortcutting or anything wrong with it. so it just looks bad but when you turn it around, no one will ever notice

I applaude mister Cliff and Joachim for their work. Cause when you look at it, you think " hmmm... I might be able to do this!" but don't be mistaken...you need a steady hand and a lot of patience to do this.

anyway...here's some footage of more sloppy work.

grtz
Dimi