[FourT6and2]

Hallo aus den USA! Dies ist meine vierte Verstärker zu bauen. Ich begann mit einem Fender Champ. Dann ein Marshall (Metro) Superlead, JCM800, und nun dies. Ich bin mit den Schaltplan aus C3-Amps, als auch die "PCB", Chassis und O'Netics Transformatoren.

Filterkondensatoren sind Panisonic.
Coupleing und Bypass-Kondensatoren sind Sprague 716p.
Widerstände sind Dale / Vishay.
Potentiometer sind Clarostat.

Genießen Sie!

[FourT6and2]

[FourT6and2]

Painting transformer end-bells.

[FourT6and2]

Resistors. I have both Dale/Vishay (I think that's what they are) and PRP. I haven't decided which ones to use yet. But I have some options.






The same blue dipped/molded ceramic disk as used in the real SLO:

[FourT6and2]

Power Board is populated.

[FourT6and2]

Currently working on the preamp PCB. Lots of resistors to install!

[Dirk]

Lots of resistors to install!

[Jürgen]

So müssen Lötstellen aussehen! Saubere Arbeit. Good Job!

Gruß, Jürgen

[FourT6and2]

So müssen Lötstellen aussehen! Saubere Arbeit. Good Job!

Gruß, Jürgen

Thanks! Danke!

[Duesentrieb]

Hi Mike, awesome job so far and excellent pics

Olaf

[FourT6and2]

Hi Mike, awesome job so far and excellent pics

Olaf

Thanks, Olaf

And thanks for all the help with research.

[FourT6and2]

Made some progress today. Preamp board is mostly finished. I just have a few small bugs to work out like the wrong wattage on two resistors in the power section and still need to install some jumpers. Also missing a ceramic disk cap.






Test fitting the boards in the chassis:

[FourT6and2]

Installed most of the rest of the chassis stuff (except for the pots, still have to cut the shafts to length):






One issue I've run into is this corner of the PCB board. The stand-off mounting hole in the corner of the board is too close to one of the F&T caps. So I can't get the nut on. I'm trying to figure out a way around this. There is another hole in the PCB to mount the cap a little farther away from the stand-off mount. But that would require me unsoldering the cap, cleaning up the solder/flux, rebending the cap leads and re-soldering.

[FourT6and2]

Removed the powder coat around the switches and pots for chassis-ground. Was a lot harder than I thought. Wound up using a Dremel. White powder EVERYWHERE. Should have worn a mask

[FourT6and2]

Ok, on to the preamp heaters. Usually wiring up heaters is my least favorite part of building an amp. It's a pain in the ass. The normal way, I'll just throw some wire into the chuck of a drill and twist away. Then cut lengths as needed and bend and wire and weave it all together. Easier than doing it by hand, but still torture.

I was actually looking forward to doing the heaters on this build, though. Just some straight wire and you're done! Love it

If you've ever wondered how to get straight bus wire, this is how I decided to do it. I used an armorer's block that I use to strip down my 1911 and drilled an 18-20 AWG hole thru it. Then I put one end of the wire in a drill and "extrude" it through the block while the drill rotates. I move the block back and forth slowly and carefully until the wire is as straight as I can get it and/or until I get super bored. Then I'll roll the wire under a wine bottle on a flat counter a bit for good measure. Seems to do the trick. Just takes a while.